|For most surfers, the lifestyle transcends the mere act of riding a wave, and becomes an existence-defining pursuit. In this episode of Fins, we chronicle three surfers from three different walks of life who have been shaped by the sport of surfing.
Touring pro Taj Burrow, perennially ranked near the top of the Association of Surfing Professional's World Tour, is a modern day professional who feels the pressures inherent in the job. Burrow, who spends nine months out of the year chasing the World Tour to dream surfing locations around the planet, also has obligations as a touring professional to his primary sponsors that keep his life a constant whirlwind. We tag along with Burrow for a day in the life of a touring pro.
The late Rick Griffin was one of the most iconic artists of the1960s surf and psychedelia scenes, but never lost his passion for and connection with surfing. Surfing was the driving influence in a life that saw Griffin's artistic and personal focus shift from surf-stoked gremmies to full-fledged psychedelic trip-out scenes to the leading edge of the born again Christian movement in the 1970s. Griffin died in 1991, but his work lives on, and was recently celebrated in an exhibit at the Laguna Beach Museum of Art.
Australia born former professional surfer Richie Lovett had his career ended when he battled cancer in 2006, and was told he would never surf again; we chronicle his comeback surf trip. Lovett is well aware that he'll never surf professionally again, so his focus has shifted once again to merely riding waves for an enjoyment, and abrupt paradigm shift, but one that--as Lovett describes-- he's immensely grateful for. We tagged along for Lovett's first trip back to the Mentawai Islands in Indonesia, and talk to him about surfing, cancer, and his hopes for the feature.
Join us as we examine the meaning of the lifestyle on this episode of Fins.